Nobody Looks for you in Mexico - Page 8
On our final morning there—Easter Sunday—we returned to the Botanical Gardens for a run amidst the cacti and pariah dogs. Armed with stones, we clicked off very quick miles. Five, 10 … eventually 20 miles. By mile 17, Jon had put a quarter mile on me, which, in a nostalgic way, was almost pleasant. The gap was enough of a warning for the old campesino to see me come and go.
We soaked up the “2 o’clock in the afternoon” feeling for the rest of the day and into the night. Music marched up and down the streets. Vendors sold tacos, balloons, popsicles and Coca Cola. Incense floated about like a spirit. “Everything is perfect on the street,” Kerouac wrote.
In the morning, Jon disappeared around the corner, off to the next phase of his life. The thread of running spread distantly between us, between airplanes and cities. Between wives, children, careers, money and age. Running is merely a thread, in the end—a thread between messengers, All-Americans, knock-kneed high schoolers and Tarahumarans. Those who finish first and those who finish last.
Trailhead :: Trail Running Around Mexico City
Seasons. Due to its subtropical location and high elevation, Central Mexico experiences only two seasons—a dry season from November to May and a rainy season from June to October—making it the perfect off-season getaway for winter-weary runners. Plan your trip around festivities for added excitement (Holy Week: first week of April 2012; Dia de Los Muertos: end of October through the beginning of November).
Getting There. Mexico City International Airport is the largest and busiest airport in Latin America. However “easing into” Mexican traffic from a smaller city is recommended. Leon, Guanajuato Airport, only one hour from San Miguel de Allende, is an excellent starting point.
Getting Around. Though bus service is available to nearly every corner of Mexico, you will spend most of your trip dealing with connections and long waits. Car rentals are cheap if you book online and even cheaper if you provide your own insurance (required). Be sure to inspect the car thoroughly and note any damages before leaving the lot!
Resources and Guidebooks. Lonely Planet offers an excellent guidebook for travelers of all budgets. Information includes local history, national parks, trails, restaurants and accommodation. Also check out www.parasalvajes.com.mx for a list of mountain races (site in Spanish only).
Recommended Reading. Mexico has long been inspiration for Mexican writers and expats alike: Under the Volcano, by Malcom Lowry, Lonesome Traveler, by Jack Kerouac, The Labyrinth of Solitude, by Octavio Paz.
Recommended Routes. Stay in a small, private cabin at the “Centro Vacacional” at the base of La Malinche (phone +52.246.462.4098). Food and bedding available. For those looking for a rougher experience, sleep at 13,000 feet partway up Xinantecatl. First come, first serve. Junk food available; bring sleeping bag.